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TOURISM » Tourist Attractions » Discover Gulangyu » Sunlight Rock
Sunlight Rock
Adapted from Amoy Magic© 2007 by Dr. Bill Brown


Chinese say the 92.7m high Sunlight Rock, known as Dragon Head Hill (Longtou Shan 龙头山) by Chinese and Camel Rock (Luotuo Shan 骆驼山) by foreigners, faces Tiger Head Hill across the bay on Xiamen Island, and that the dragon and tiger team up to guard Xiamen Harbor's entrance.


In America, "rolling stones gather no moss", in China, they gather no inscriptions. But Sunlight Rock, like any Chinese rock that sits still long enough, is covered with calligraphic inscriptions—over 80, in fact, the most famous being "Heroic Spirit of South Fujian Sea," a eulogy to Koxinga, Another inscription claims that in 1609 a Ming Dynasty official named Chi Zhifu (池直夫) built a flower and bamboo garden at the foot of Sunlight Rock, and researchers have unearthed Ming Dynasty relics in the area.


Sunlight Rock's oldest carving was inscribed about 400 years ago on a rock near the main gate and reads, "Gulang Dongtian" (鼓浪洞天): "Gulangyu—a Fairyland." The 100-year-old characters to the left read, "Lujiang Diyi"(鹭江第一): "#1 Scenery of the Lujiang River." The horizontal characters, "Tianfeng Haitao"(天风海涛), carved in 1915, suggest that you can hear both roaring wind and raging sea as you climb Sunlight Rock. 


The Fort Gate The Fort Gate, one of the islet's most prized sites, is all that remains of Koxinga's fortress.The gate is 74 cm wide by 174 cm high. The largest stones had holes that supported the houses' roof beams.


The Fort Gate of course has its share of classic chiseled inscriptions, such as this poem about Koxinga written by educator Mr. Cai Yuanpei (蔡元培): 

      Master of wind and waves,
      Amidst the cloud of battle calmly commands,
      Though he sacrificed his steadfast spirit, 
      He was upright to the last.


Koxinga's Command Platform
, Through the Fort Gate and to the right is " Wanzai Pavilion" (宛在亭). "Wanzai" infers "heroic spirit yet remains", and from this 15 meter high by 6 meter wide granite outcropping, the great man commanded his troops. The large engraved characters, "Minghai Xiongfeng," eulogize Koxinga's heroism and determination. The sea is now a good distance from the command platform but in Koxinga's day the junks could sail at high tide right up to the base of Sunlight Rock.


The Ancient Summer Resort Cave   A century ago, the famous Taiwanese poet Shi Shijie (施士洁) painted on the cave's roof "Gu Bi Shu Dong ": "Ancient Summer Resort Cave." (古避暑洞). But it isn't really a "resort ". It's not really a cave either, but Chinese apply that appellation loosely to just about any natural configuration that casts a hint of a shadow. This so-called "resort cave" is but a 10 meter enclosure formed by one massive rock leaning against another. But this happy consanguinity afforded centuries of pleasure to Chinese who, lacking television, watched rocks instead (an eminently patient people!), and delighted in naming these rocks after whatever they resembled. The "resort cave's" two stones supposedly resemble "ren" (人), for "people". 


Sunlight Rock Temple (Riguangyan Si 日光岩寺), one of Xiamen's four most important temples during the Ming and Qing Dynasties, was built between 1506 and 1521 and called Lotus Temple (Lianhua An 莲花庵). It was rebuilt in 1596 and renamed Sunlight Rock Temple, and is now dedicated to worship of Guanyin (观音), goddess of mercy (a formerly male deity whom Chinese women changed to female over 1,000 years ago because they felt male deities were unsympathetic to their needs).


Sunlight Rock Temple
Sunlight Rock Temple, which is partially within a cave, is often called "One Tile Roof " (Yipian Wa 片瓦) because a large rock forms part of  the roof. It is also called a "Pocket Temple" because it encompasses only 2,856m. But though its location, scrunched up within a rock, prevents it from sprawling like other temples,  it makes up for size by its exquisite setting, with uniquely Chinese eaves, arches, columns, and glazed colored tiles. The neighboring European architecture only reinforces the essential Chineseness of this pocket-temple. This is China's only temple in which the Buddha Hall (大雄宝殿) and Maitreya (Milefuo) Hall are face to face. There was also a Xu Booth (旭亭) built between 1723 and 1735, but all that remains is a cliff inscription.  


Abbot Liuzhan (六湛法师) administered Sunlight temple from 1851 to 1872, and built Yuanmin Palace (圆明殿).Yuanmin Palace was replaced in 1854 with the 'Study Buddha Hall' (Nianfo Tang, 念佛堂). After a fire damaged the hall in 1960, Abbott Zhengguo (正果法师) asked for donations from his mas-ter Shanqi (善契法师) in the Philippines.The Biguang building, Gongde Hall (功德堂), Zu Hall (祖堂) were removed and the dorms were rebuilt. Gulangyu Electric Works took over the temple during the Cultural Revolution but returned it in 1983, and the temple got a two million Yuan facelift after Xiamen became a Special Economic Zone.


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